You may either hike the grueling "killer trail" or take a car to
several rural dams in the Dominican mountains. The dramatic views along
the stretch are inspiring as you wind your way along the range before plunging
to the river. There is plenty of time to stop, have lunch, and take many
dips.
Testimonial
Wild
Times in the Village of the Dam
Exploring
the Dominican Campo
Dams
so fine you'd think Mother Nature made 'em
A
wise sage once remarked that it was better to
travel than to arrive. This thought held me as I
set off on a trek to a trio of man-made dams
around Rio Blanco, a mountain village near Bonao,
for I had never felt the romance of dam-spotting.
The road up to Rio Blanco was full of weird and
wonderful distractions, just as well because the
grueling two-hour hike made my legs feel like
they’d been fed through a rolling machine.
Precious little traffic allows me to appreciate
the hummingbirds busy at work in the morning
shade, and to enjoy the dazzling surroundings.
A
conveyor belt of local characters drift past me in
all manner of guises and thrift store clothes. A
little blonde albino girl cutting guavas with a
machete. A pair of wild-eyed identical twins with
barely a tooth between them. A skinny gentleman
whose dangling pipe and candy striped jacket give
him the strange air of an extra from a British
seaside movie. It’s all very exhilarating until
I’m stopped by a woman with short curly hair and
a steady neurotic stare. We exchange a few
pleasantries then she starts to play with me.
“I had a few problems with a boy once… I
smashed him up with a stick….. do you think
that’s bad?”
“Well….
I don’t really know the reasons why you did
it..”
“So
I could crush him up and drink him like fruit
juice”
Terrified
I bound on trying not to look like I’m running,
hoping for some sign of human life around the
corner.
For
much of the time though it is head down and grit
out the steeply zigzagging trail. Around every
scenic corner in the road a new waterfall appears
giving me refreshment and willpower to plough on.
I collapse ungracefully upon finally reaching the
center of Blanco, ready to be swept away by the
broom of a local housemaid.
In true Dominican style, community life in and
around Blanco unfolds out on the street. This
gives the strange passing foreigner a rare
privilege of seeing and joining in the timeless
pastimes of the campo, such as the drying of
coffee and cacao out on the doorstep.
The innate friendliness of the locals will soon
shine through their initial surprise at seeing a
stranger in this little visited area. It is
enchanting to see little brown bodies splashing
and laughing under roadside waterfalls. Or to
receive a wave from beautifully preserved old man
rocking away on the porch of his powder blue
wooden shack.
The
pastel colors of the houses and the vibrant
wildflowers perfectly compliment the deep green
backdrop. Indeed the landscape appears largely
unaffected by the introduction of the dams fifteen
years ago. An old timer, Heladio, accompanies me
for the final stretch, and explains that before
construction began, the road to from here to Bonao
was a mere mule trail. A 77 year old farmer, he
recalls how the French owned dams have brought
more commerce to the region, as well as creating
jobs for the local people.
The three
dams turn out to be strikingly different in
character. Of course it is impressive how such an
ambitious project was undertaken in an area of
such awkward accessibility. But what surprised me
more was the physical beauty of the reservoirs.
Standing atop Presa Arroyón and gazing into the
emerald waters of the flooded valley, I felt that
the view rivaled any of Mother Nature’s work in
the Dominican Republic. To arrive here, though
jaded and delirious after hours of strenuous
walking, was just as rewarding as the journey.
I walked
back with Heladio and told him how happy and
surprised I was to find the dams to be so
picturesque. Whether he thought I was crazy or
not, his knowing smile put me at peace. In front
of us a small boy was trying with difficulty to
shepherd a pair of piglets. A scene of delightful
rural serenity. “My great grandson”, murmured
Heladio, beaming at the boy. It could easily have
been him, seventy years previously, or a moment
from countless generations before that. I hitched
a ride with a choking truck back to Bonao,
although it might as well have been a time machine
taking me back into the twenty first century.
Costs
There are two ways to reach the village of the dam. You
may either take a car and guide up to the dams and tour with them. You may
also choose to hike a trail (nicknamed the "killer trail") up to the dams, with
or without a guide, then get picked up on the way back. Either option with
guide (recommended) includes lunch and costs $39 USD. If you choose to hike without a guide, there is
no charge, and we will provide you with a map. Lunch alone is $5 USD.
